Mulberries

American summers are full of berries: strawberries in shortcakes, blueberries in pies, raspberries in tartlets. But now that I’m back in the States, I’m finding it impossible to track down an incredible berry that I saw on almost every corner in Istanbul: the mulberry.

Mulberries aren’t entirely unknown in this country, but they’re probably a C-list ingredient recognized mostly from their roles in “Pop Goes the Weasel” and specialty store jams. I don’t think I had much of an idea of what a fresh mulberry looked like until I saw them in Turkey, and was extremely surprised to find out that they come in white. Though there are darker varieties, the white ones were common in Istanbul, and have a delightfully maggoty look. Their taste was very mild, similar to figs, and I’m sure their delicate softness makes them very difficult to transport. Which is unfortunate, because I would like very much to buy some white mulberries and convince my German roommates that maggots are used all the time in American cuisine.

It just goes to show you that you shouldn’t pass up food in unfamiliar colors, or you might miss out on some tasty experiences. I was skeptical that the bright green figs I bought could be in any way ripe, but it turned out that they contained delicious ruby insides, and were very refreshing after hiking to a beach on one of the Princes’ Islands.

Though the summer fruit here in the Bay Area leaves nothing to be desired, I still slightly miss the novelty of Istanbul’s produce, and the fun of asking for it in Turkish. Mulberry is “dut,” and you never get to say anything as amusing in an American market.